This atmosphere can still be relived today in the spaces of the small tavern with a dozen seats, now only open during village festivals, where one corner holds the old tools of the last Devetak cobbler, Uncle Remo, as a small museum. It all began when Ivan Devetak, a "šušter" by profession (a cobbler, like his father and grandfather), had a brilliant idea: t o serve a glass of wine and a slice of salami in his workshop turned hut to those awaiting repairs, with the help of his wife Marija. Here in San Michele, a hamlet of just 250 souls where a crucial battle of the Great War took place, commemorated by a museum, there's an extra reason to stay amidst the folds of history. Perhaps there's nothing more "Karstic '' than Lokanda Devetak, a place that in various ways, since 1870 (and even earlier), keeps this fascinating strip of land and rock alive. But metaphorically, the word also stands for what sinks and then resurfaces unexpectedly, yet remains ever-present, pulsating invisibly somewhere deep. A celebration of biodiversity amidst the stones, thanks to underground water, with sinkholes that open up like Heideggerian clearings.
"Karstic" in the dictionary refers to what originates from the Karst, a border area of our Friuli, sometimes Italian, sometimes Slovenian over time, echoing historical battles in the bunkers along the roads.
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